Calabrisella Mia

Chianalea in Scilla is so much more than a delightful fishing district in the town of Scilla. It is a mystical place that wraps you up in its charm and allure. This ancient hamlet in the province of Reggio Calabria is one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Hamlets. You’ll instantly understand why the very moment you step foot here.

Where Is It?

Scilla sits on the Costa Viola at the entrance of the Strait of Messina where the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas meet. From the beach, you look out to the sea and see Sicily in the distance. The island seems almost close enough to touch.

What makes this Calabrian seaside town so unique is its diverse characteristics. On the high cliffs, the old town looks down to the marina on one side. On the other side, nestled along the shoreline, is the enchanting fishing district of Chianalea in Scilla.

Scilla and Chianalea are mesmerizing and magical. Maybe because of its ties to Greek mythology and the epic legend of Scylla and Charybdis.

The Mythical Legend of Scylla

Scylla is one of Greek Mythology’s deadliest sea monsters. She is described as a hideous six-headed monster living in a rocky outcrop on one side of a well-known strait – the Strait of Messina?
However, Scylla wasn’t always a ravenous sea monster. She was once said to be a beautiful nymph who was transformed into a hideous monster by a jealous enchantress.

If you’ve ever read Homer’s The Odyssey, then you may remember reading about Scylla during Ulysses’ journey. During his voyage, he had to navigate the narrow channel. On one side was Scylla and, on the other, Charybdis, the whirlpool monster.

Both monsters were known for their unapologetic raths on sailors, so Ulysses had a difficult choice to make. He found himself between what we now call “a rock and a hard place.”

He chose what he believed was the lesser of two evils and passed along the cliffs of Scylla’s lair. Spoiler alert: he saved his ship, but Scylla devoured six of his crew.

What To See

Lungomare Boardwalk

If you choose to arrive by train, as I did, then your first stop will definitely be the lungomare. As you make your way out of the train station, you can’t help but notice the bright blue sea calling to you from the end of a long narrow street.

It’s just a short walk and, as you turn the corner of the narrow alleyway, the true magic begins. Directly in front of you is the clear crystal blue sea with its waves gently caressing the white sandy beach. You see Sicily in the distance and are in awe by how close it seems.

From the corner of your eye, you glimpse a castle sitting on the rocky outcrop that juts out over the sea. The castle is a perfect blend of charm and dominance. On the beach, the remains of an old, weathered fishing boat lying on the sand. It is hard not to think of it as a poetic homage to the fishing tradition present here and the epic legend that this town grows from.

Take a seat on one of the benches. Don’t rush! Take a moment to breathe in the fresh sea air and take in the activity around you. You can even pop into one of the cafes, like Gelateria San Francesco, for a coffee, refreshing drink, gelato, or even something to eat.

Across the street from this café is the Chiesa dello Santo Spirito which still stands tall and impressive even after two massive earthquakes that devasted this region.

Port of Scilla

Continue along the lungomare towards the castle. There is an underpass that takes you to the Port of Scilla. When you come out the other side, it’s like being transported to a parallel dimension or, at the very least, another time.

Follow the port to the very end and admire the fishing boats peacefully bobbing in the water. Then, take your gaze up and admire your first look at the fishing district of Chianalea. The muted-coloured buildings are a true testament to the effects of the natural elements they’ve had to face over time. Now, it’s time to explore this unique and enchanting neighbourhood.

Heading towards the fishing district of Chianalea in Scilla, you pass rows and rows of fishing boats anchored on the shore. The local fishermen go about their daily routine, carefully preparing their fishing nets before releasing their boat into the water.

Chianalea – Ancient Fishing District

Eventually, you find yourself entering Chianalea with its narrow cobblestone streets and colourful buildings.

The sound of the waves kissing up against the houses that line the shore can be heard from the street. It becomes a sort of meditation that pulls you even deeper into the magic of this place.

Tucked in a corner on Via Grotte is this small fountain. The mermaid sitting on a rocky shore with a seashell in her hands gives you a taste of what you can expect as you continue along on your journey.

Chianalea in Scilla should be explored slowly and with youthful curiosity. To truly experience the wonder of this town you need to explore every angle, every corner, every inch of it. As you pass the small alleys that lead down to the waterfront, you will find all sorts of surprises awaiting you.

The narrow streets eventually give way to one of the most picturesque parts of Chianalea – Scaro Alaggio. This open area is filled with boats that are anchored on the shore.

Walk down towards the water edge and you are graced with a spectacular view. All along the rocky shore, the buildings seem to rise up straight out of the water. I’ve never seen anything quite like it before!

Continuing through the town you notice the intricate details of the houses. They slowly turn into a scavenger hunt as you stumble across masks, paintings, and other curious things. You soon realize how much beauty there is in the details, and you find yourself wanting more!

Old Town of Scilla – Piazza San Rocco

The old town hovers over the marina and the fishing district. At the highest point is Piazza San Rocco. The steps leading up are a challenge, your heart begins to race, and your body temperature slowly rises. But you forget it all when you get your first look at the views from this magnificent square.

You are left breathless – not from the walk up but from the impressive views over the marina and sea. The feeling of peace and tranquility from here is intense – take a moment, catch your breath, and take it all in.

At one end of the square is a stunning statue. The metamorphosis of the beautiful nymph Scylla rising out of the relentless waves of the strait. This depiction of Scylla conjures up many emotions – fascination, uneasiness, and sadness. You see her pain and suffering as she begins the dramatic transformation into the deadly sea monster she is to become.

Castello Ruffo

Below the panoramic lookout point in Piazza San Rocco is the mighty Castello Ruffo (Ruffo Castle). Sitting in front of the castle is the Church of Maria Santissima Immacolata that faces a fountain and the grand staircase that leads up to Piazza San Rocco.

The castle sits on a menacing cliff, a strategic site to protect this town from ruthless raids and pirates that goes back to at least the 5th century.

Throughout its long history, it passed through many hands from the Ancient Romans to the Byzantines to Basilian Monks. In 1533 the noble Ruffo Family bought the castle. Infact, their family stem still graces the entrance of this magnificent fortress.

Walking up to the castle, you can feel its power and dominance, paled only in comparison to the immense blue sea surrounding it. The castle begs to be visited. I’ll be back to explore this impressive and historical site but, for now, the views from its exterior are enough to satisfy me.

One final stop at the marina to take in that last bit of sea air and watch the sun as it begins to descend before it’s time to catch the train home.

A day in Scilla is magical…enchanting…spellbinding. You take a piece of this magic with you, like an invisible talisman. It has the power to transport you back, to relive the experience over and over again.

How To Get There:

You can get to Chianalea in Scilla by car via the E45/A2 highway, exit Scilla. Depending on when you travel, parking may be difficult.
There are regular trains with Trenitalia that arrive at the Scilla train station. From the station, it is less than a 5-minute walk to the beach boardwalk.

This post is part of a series that focuses on ancient hamlets in Calabria that have been selected as one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Hamlets. You can check out my first post for this series about the ancient hamlet of Fiumefreddo Bruzio.

I look forward to visiting all of these small charming villages and sharing my experiences and travel advice with you. 

If you want to find out what I’m up to, you can keep up with my daily life and musings over on the Calabrisella Mia Facebook Page and Instagram!