Calabrisella Mia

Fiumefreddo Bruzio, an ancient hamlet in the province of Cosenza located on high cliffs overlooking the glorious Tyrrhenian Sea, dates back to the Middle Ages. It is one of the “Borghi Piu Belli d’Italia“ – and it’s easy to see why!

As you walk through the grand entrance that leads you into the old town, you are instantly greeted by the beauty and history of this hamlet. And let me tell you, Fiumefreddo Bruzio doesn’t waste any time! It immediately embraces you with its magnificent noble residences, impressive churches, and piazzas with stunning coastline views. It’s also interesting to see its ancient roots juxtaposed with the contemporary art of the multifaceted artist, Salvatore Fiume. It makes this already impressive place even more special.

Who is Salvatore Fiume?  

A visit to Fiumefreddo Bruzio and you’ll quickly learn that Salvatore Fiume is an important figure there. His various works of art are scattered throughout the hamlet. But don’t let the name fool you, he wasn’t from this town, he wasn’t even Calabrese. He was actually born in Sicily. 

Salvatore Fiume was born in 1915 in the town of Comiso in the province of Ragusa. He was a sort of “jack of all trades” – a painter, a sculptor, an architect, and a writer. Several works by this internationally recognized artist are on display in some of the world’s most important museums, such as the Vatican, MoMA in New York, and the Gallery of Modern Art in Milan.

 So, with all this international acclaim, what is Salvatore Fiume’s connection to a small hamlet in Calabria? 

Some things just can’t be explained, so we often attribute them to fate or destiny. And I guess you can say, that was the case for Salvatore Fiume as well. In 1975, as he was driving to Milan from Sicily, he became intrigued by the village name and decided to alter his path and pay it a visit.

Looking out at the vast and mesmerizing blue hues of the Tyrrhenian sea, he felt a powerful connection. It was at that very moment that his “love affair” with the village began. Salvatore would return to this village over the next two decades, leaving behind pieces of his heart and soul through the intricate works of art he created there.

Castello della Valle: The Frescoes in La Stanza dei Desideri 

The castle in Fiumefreddo Bruzio has some magical ability to charm visitors even though it sits partially in ruins. Salvatore couldn’t help but fall in love with the castle and during the summer of 1975, he began to fresco some of its exterior and interior walls. The original works, unfortunately, fell victim to the elements over the years. But, in the summer of 1996, at the age of 81, Salvatore Fiume repainted the frescoes of the interior walls of a room known as “La Stanza dei Desideri”.

The frescoes are probably one of his final works. He began painting on July 11th and completed the frecoes on July 21st – he passed away the following year.

In the center of the room, there are also two statues – Daphne and Apollo. The sculptures are quite unique, sitting naked on the floor with expressions of amazement and mouths wide open in awe as they gaze at the frescoes surrounding them.

Chiesa di San Rocco (Church of Saint Roch)

The Chiesa di San Rocco is not far from Piazza Rupe, one of the beautiful lookout points in the village. The hexagonal-shaped building looks more like a tower than a place of worship, but it’s worth checking out. In 1976, Salvatore Fiume returned to the village and began another one of his works of art.

You can see Salvatore’s contribution to this religious building instantly with a painting of an image of San Rocco and his dog in true Salvatore Fiume style. This is just a sneak peek of what awaits you inside. As you walk through the entrance, gaze up at the ceiling to admire the paintings depicting the miracles of St. Roch as he encounters and frees the people from a deadly plague. 

The Piazze

In the two main squares of the town, you’ll find two more works of art by Salvatore Fiume. However, these are not paintings, but sculptures.

Piazza Rupe

Behind St. Roch Church is Piazza Rupe, the perfect spot for admiring the sun as it dips into the sea, bidding farewell to another day. Here the locals gather to watch one of Mother Nature’s masterpieces every evening – the sunset. 

And here you’ll find the Statua della Fortuna or the Statue of Fortune. It is made up of two large bronze discs, resembling a large coin. On one side of the “coin” is an image of the Goddess of Fortune sitting on a cornucopia, symbolizing abundance and prosperity. On the other side, you’ll find these words written by Salvatore Fiume engraved:

Tutte sono augurabili le fortune, grandi e piccole, ma ve n’è una, amico, più grande, quella è che si innamori di te la donna che ami. 

English Translation: All fortunes are desirable, large and small, but there is one, my friend, the greatest, that is that the woman you love falls in love with you.

Largo Torretta

Another beautiful piazza in the historic centre is Largo Torretta. It is a large terrace overlooking the sea and a popular spot for locals and visitors to gather and catch the evening sunset. From here, you can even see Stromboli in the distance on a clear day. But what stands out the most is the large bronze sculpture in front of the clock tower. “La Ragazza del Surf” (Surfer Girl) was donated to the town by Salvatore Fiume in 1996. 

It may seem odd to see this curvy woman surfing in the hilltop town with a smile of delight on her face. However, for me, it somehow seems to work. With the everchanging colours of the sky as a backdrop, it’s like being on an endless adventure.

If you want to find out what I’m up to, you can keep up with my daily life and musings over on the Calabrisella Mia Facebook Page and Instagram!