Palazzo Spadafora in Cosenza: The Hidden Roman Baths

Even after all these years, I’m still completely in awe of the sheer amount of history that surrounds me on a daily basis. Maybe it’s the fact that I grew up in Toronto, which in comparison to Cosenza, is quite a bit younger…like 2000 years younger. Every time I wander the narrow streets and alleyways of the Centro Storico, I can’t even begin to wrap my head around what it may have been like to live here hundreds and even thousands of years ago.

My imagination runs wild when I walk past all the old palazzi in the historic centre. I mean, can you just imagine the stories they could tell?

In fact, whenever the chance pops up to step inside one of these magnificent palazzi, I come running. A couple of years ago, Palazzo Grisolia, a historic Dimora in the heart of the old town, opened its doors to the public, and I couldn’t pass up the chance to take a peek inside.

The historic centre has a number of important noble residences, and behind their ornate entrances lies a story, a history, and a sort of portal to the past.

Palazzo Spadafora

Palazzo Spadafora is located not far from the old town’s main road, Corso Telesio. Standing in the small alleyway in front of its main entrance, it looks just like any other building that lines the streets of Cosenza Vecchia. But if I’ve learned anything living here, things are not always as they seem. Palazzo Spadafora is no exception.

The palazzo was built in the 15th century, which, if we are being honest, isn’t very old for Cosenza. So, why was I so eager to visit this place? Well, it helps first to know that Cosenza was shaped by many civilizations…Enotri, Bruttii, Romans, Visigoths, Byzantines, Normans, Swabians…you get the point. And layer after layer, each civilization built on top of the last, each leaving its own mark.

So, Palazzo Spadafora may have been built in the 1400s, but sitting below it was something much older: the remains of a Roman bath.

Discovery of the Roman Baths

Do you want to know the crazy part? Nobody knew these baths were even there. During renovations in the early 2000s, workers removed the floors and found themselves looking at the remains of a Roman bath complex. Can you believe it? The palazzo’s outer walls were built directly on top of the Roman ones, using them as foundations.

Roman baths, like the ones found in Palazzo Spadafora, were once a hub of social life. They were a place where people gathered, shared stories, and enjoyed moments of relaxation. This discovery is only a small piece of the complex, which likely continues beyond the palazzo walls, under the streets and surrounding area.

Palazzo Spadafora Today

Today, Palazzo Spadafora is owned by the City of Cosenza. It is also home to the Cosenza Open Incubator, a project run by the University of Calabria. Since 2023, it has housed a number of innovative start-ups that focus on culture and tourism. One of these start-ups is 3DPlus, which created a fascinating project called Piccolo Teatro nelle Terme. Walking across a glass walkway with the ruins beneath your feet, you are led into open spaces that were once part of the baths. Everything was already fascinating, but then with the help of video projections, 3D reconstructions, and storytelling, the Roman baths came to life, and I felt as though I was there.

I have never seen anything quite like this, an incredibly beautiful fusion of archaeology, storytelling, and technology.

But here’s the thing…you can’t just walk in and visit the Roman baths any day of the week. The baths have only opened to the public on special occasions or during cultural events. But that kind of makes it feel like a secret.

I love visiting and discovering new places like this. There are so many incredibly amazing things still to discover in the city and region I now call home. I look forward to sharing more of these beautiful places with all of you.

Want to find out what I’m up to? Keep up with my daily life and musings over on the Calabrisella Mia Facebook Page and Instagram!

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